Peaks of the Balkans: Trekking Guide to the Accursed Mountains
The Peaks of the Balkans is a roughly 192 km circular hiking route through the Accursed Mountains (Prokletije / Bjeshkët e Nemuna), linking Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro. Theth and Valbona sit at the heart of the network.
What is the trail? 192 km, three countries, one loop
The Peaks of the Balkans opened in 2012 as a joint effort of the German development agency GIZ and local action groups. The roughly 192 km loop links remote villages across the Accursed Mountains of Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro; both the Albanian Bjeshkët e Nemuna and the Slavic Prokletije mean 'Accursed Mountains'. It is usually split into ten stages, and most hikers finish in 9 to 12 days. The route follows red-and-white blazes whose quality varies by country. Some sources report that parts have been re-routed, so shorter variants are walked today.
Theth, Valbona and the famous pass
Theth and Valbona are stone villages of the Albanian Alps and form the most popular section. No road links them; the only crossing is the footpath over the roughly 1,800 m Valbona Pass (Qafa e Valbonës). This stage runs about 17 km, and from the pass the Theth valley opens on one side and the Valbona valley on the other. Theth belongs to the protected area that merged with Valbona in 2022 to form the Alps of Albania National Park; the Grunas Waterfall is about 30 m high. Hikers debate direction, as you can start from either Theth or Valbona.
The cross-border permit and guides
Because the route crosses 'green borders' away from official checkpoints, a special permit system applies. Three permits are reported for the full loop; the application asks for passport details and an ID scan. Albania and Kosovo permits are usually issued electronically and free, while Montenegro has charged a fee since 2014, paid via bank or post office and collected from the border police near Plav. Applying at least two weeks before departure is advised. Because the process can be awkward, many hikers work with local tour operators.
Difficulty, guesthouses and stages
The route needs no technical climbing but is physically demanding; elevation ranges roughly from 670 m to 2,300 m, and total ascent is given around 9,800 m in several sources. Daily walks average 6 to 8 hours. Nearly every stage ends in a village or seasonal pasture with family-run guesthouses offering dinner, breakfast and a packed lunch; choices span from simple homestays to mountain huts. Since ATMs exist only in Plav and Pejë, carrying cash (euros or local currency) matters.
Best season and getting there: Shkodra, Tirana, Komani ferry
The hiking season usually runs from late May to October; the most stable weather is reported July to September, and early in the year an ice axe may be needed for lingering snowfields. Many arrive via Tirana or Shkodra. The classic entry goes by early furgon from Shkodra to Koman, across Lake Komani by ferry to Fierzë, then by furgon up to Valbona; Theth is reached from Shkodra by road. On the Montenegrin side Plav and on the Kosovo side Pejë are the main hubs, linked by regional buses to Podgorica and Pristina. The ferry is an operational service, not a tourist boat.
FAQ
Do you really need a permit for the Peaks of the Balkans?
Yes. Because the route crosses 'green borders' away from official checkpoints, a special system applies; three permits are reported for the full loop, and the application needs passport details. Albania and Kosovo are usually free, Montenegro charges a fee.
Is there a road between Valbona and Theth?
No. No road links the two villages; the only crossing is the roughly 17 km footpath over the roughly 1,800 m Valbona Pass. You can start in either direction, and access is usually set up via Shkodra and the Lake Komani ferry.